It is common knowledge that a country’s true magic – the intricacies of its culture; its most authentic food; and the most remote, least famous landscapes – is reserved for those lucky enough to have spent a significant part of their life there. It has been a privilege to be shown Kenya by someone who has called it home since he was five, allowing me to not only see it, but to understand it. A great passion of mine is hiking, so when I visit a new country, finding the coolest walks is the first thing on my agenda. If you share my passion for walking, and find yourself in Kenya, these are my three recommendations, passed on from someone with far more knowledge and authority than I could ever possess. These walks might not be the longest or most challenging, but they are uniquely wonderful, and not yet hotspots on the key tourist trails.
Mount Kasigau
Mount Kasigau is situated in Taita-Taveta county, nestled between the Tsavo West and East National Parks. It is certainly off of the beaten track, but still accessible – being a few hours’ drive from the nearest big town ‘Voi’. I will warn you that a good two of those hours are down very bumpy dirt tracks, so a strong vehicle and stomach is required.
We were the first ever guests in a camp run by the local guide ‘Jackson’. He is also one of the few people licensed to take people up the mountain, he is therefore a fountain of knowledge regarding the local flora and fauna, and complicated history of the region.
The mountain itself is 1.640 metres, and takes roughly three hours to get to the summit. We set off with enough snacks to last a week, yet enough water for only the next hour or so… rookie mistake. You will be taken on motorbikes to the start of the walk, a small village situated in typical bush terrain – fairly dry with the main vegetation being impressively spikey shrubs.
After an hour or two of walking you will begin to see the first glimpses of the cloud forest. As you climb higher the landscape completely transforms from dry dessert to lush tropical rainforest. Shrubs become towering trees covered entirely in moss, and the ground beneath you no longer crumbles at your step, but coats your foot in wet soil and a layer of leafy debris.
The views at the top are completely spectacular, allowing you to see clearly the stark contrast between the thousands of miles of desert in every direction, and the lush green mountain world where you stand.
Mount Longonot
Mount Longonot isn’t quite the well-preserved secret that Kasigau is, but is certainly not in a typical Kenya tourist’s top ten things to do! Longonot is very easy to get to, being only 90km outside of Nairobi, and only a two-hour drive down the Nairobi-Nakuru highway.
Longonot is a stratovolcano, believed to have last erupted in the 1860’s. It is famous for its magnificently large and perfectly circular crater, with a footpath taking you up the steep sides of the volcano and all the way round the rim. While completing the circuit around the crater, you can look inside and marvel at the other-worldly rainforest that has taken root at its base. Similarly to Kasigau, the forest is its own ecosystem, making it entirely unique and disconnected from the nature around it.
The hike itself is 13.5 km, taking between 3-6 hours depending on fitness level. The total elevation gain is roughly 1000m, so not too strenuous, however take note that the summit is 2780m high, so if you are like me, and spend the majority of your life at sea level, you may feel some altitude sickness which could slow you down.
The views into the crater are otherworldly, and on top of this, the rift valley where it is located is home to fascinating wildlife, plants and geological features. The hike, though relatively short is epic, and cannot be missed.